Surfing has been around for centuries. It is well-known that the ancient Polynesians and Hawaiians were among the first to ever ride the waves, but there are accounts of surfing that go back even ...
A reprint of the original ed., published in 3 v., 1878-1885, with the addition of "Index to The Polynesian race by Abraham Fornander, compiled by John F. G. Stokes ... with a brief memoir of Judge ...
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