In the Sibillini Mountains of Italy, I have been rereading Buzzati’s Il deserto dei Tartari (‘The Desert of the Tartars’, translated into English as The Tartar Steppe). Written in 1938, this prescient ...

For a creamy, comforting, and super-savory kugel, chef Bonnie Morales soaks matzo in a homemade mushroom stock, then mixes it with Swiss chard and crème fraîche.